Building a brand for the Bandas
The Banda Islands are searching for an identity. Made famous for nutmeg, cloves and exotic spices, they were fought over for centuries by European explorers. Today, they’re barely known outside of small circles that include history buffs, eccentric travellers, agronomists and marine aficionados. Their rare beauty and fame as the former heart of the spice trade has made them a target of the Indonesian government, which is hoping tourism can bolster its sagging economy and reduce its dependence on commodities.
Small businesses and guesthouse owners are keen, seeing benefits in the form of jobs, increased profits and livelihoods. But they’re also deeply worried. During a public consultation with a government agency planning an environmental assessment, residents said they worried about how the island would handle more rubbish. And then there is the lack of infrastructure and unreliable transportation. “The island isn’t ready for an influx of tourism,” said many.
It’s a classic story of paradise threatened by rapid development, made all the more urgent by efforts to promote the island’s unique past through a festival in the autumn. During low season in June, when the rains begin, guesthouses are empty and many shops open for just a few hours to cater to residents. Historical sites are under lock and key — visitors have to go looking for the man who controls entry to the museum. In October and November, when tourism is at its peak, guesthouse owners here say places are completely booked. Some who’ve come without reservations end up sleeping on balconies, restaurants have hour-long waits.
It’s hard to imagine when the streets are so quiet. On the smaller islands outside the main port of Banda Neira, everyone has closed for the season. One homestay owner turned me away when I came asking if they served food saying, “No, we’re on holiday,” he said, blinking at me as though I was an apparition.
There are many here who have a stake in ensuring the Bandas retains their charms. Among them are the iconic beaches of Hatta Island with stunning coral reefs right offshore. Nutmeg-rich Run Island, the epicenter of the spice trade battle between the Dutch and the English, who famously agreed to give it up in exchange for a far less lucrative island at the time — Manhattan. And Banda Neira, the main port in the island chain, home to historical buildings, a thriving tourism industry and just a hop away from the perfectly conical volcano that gives evidence to the origins of these islets and the stunning coral reefs that surround them.
Many also want to earn money and promote the islands they love. “Look at Manhattan, it’s become so famous, so wealthy. And what about Run, there’s nothing here,” said Burhan, the owner of a guesthouse on Run Island. He worries about the impacts of mass tourism — though he’s certainly prepared to see an increase in visitors (he’s currently renovating his three-bedroom guesthouse to serve them). Yet he’s among the many who view the upcoming festival with skepticism, citing the poor transportation and rustic facilities. Run is a good two hours by boat from Neira and many days the waves are too rough for sea transport. Even traders seeking nutmeg at one time worth more than gold considered this tiny, far-flung, coral-ringed atoll a risky venture. What if people get sick? asks Burhan. What if the boats don’t run? How will they even get here?
